(Note, this was written originally written in early November, just posting now!)
To state the obvious – it’s been a few weeks. So much has happened. So much stays the same. We’re still cycling. Hills are still big and challenging. Views are still stunning. So many people are amazing and kind and light up your whole day. Some people make you deeply question what cultural mistake you’ve made now. We’ve learned a lot (again) about how silly carefully laid plans are and how important it is to trust that it’ll all work out.
More delightful tales coming soon; in this post I’m going to focus on two things we were completely unprepared for: dogs and rabies.
When we reached the border crossing into Montenegro from Bosnia and Herzegovina we had been climbing in the mountains for a few days. It had been gorgeous and frigid. Climbs centered around river crossings. We would descend down to the pristine Tara River, pass over a usually very small and delightful bridge where we could admire the view, and then the climb began. On this first day of dogs the end of our ride had us following along the river, a welcome departure from the river usually meaning a climb was upon us, and crossing the river finally to enter Montenegro. On this river valley road the first very very large dogs greeted us with hatred. This was not your average tiny, easily deterred stray that was simply chasing a wheel out of boredom. This was a guard dog. Well fed. Well prepared to make sure you got and stayed the hell out. If it got a little bite or your bag or ankle along the way, no problem. At first this behavior was manageable. They were mainly guarding closed rafting camps along this river road and their territory was small.
We made it to Montenegro that evening, and hunkered down for a day to wait out some bad weather. We were so far undeterred.
I mention where we stayed after first crossing the border because it becomes important later. It was a very small mountain community with many stray cats.
After the rain, we carry forward. While all paved, the backroads and panoramic highways of Montenegro were gorgeous. While riding through national parks we were mostly dog-safe, but otherwise the situation escalated. We were now biking through bear and wolf country. It was also prime grazing territory. A potent combination for massive, extremely aggressive shepherd dogs. Every time I saw a little mountain hut or heard the familiar ring of a sheep bell, my head was on a swivel. What direction is the dog coming from? Is there a shepherd nearby to call them off when they attack?
Their chasing was growing relentless and the teeth closer to snagging us. I had to start screaming at them to startle them enough to stop for a moment and let us get past.
If you know me, you know I’m a dog lover. Screaming expletives at the top of my lungs at dogs was really challenging for me. It went against so much of who I was, but the adrenaline and survival instincts were taking over. It felt bad.
After one particularly rough day of this, I sat on our hotel bed (at Guesthouse Sandra, no less. Of course it was a Sandra that saved us), a little shell shocked, and started thinking – if dogs are anything like this in Vietnam, we are going to have a very serious rabies problem on our hands. Rabies is endemic in Vietnam and people are treated regularly. Getting treatment early is critical, failure to do so within a quick timeframe is usually fatal if you have been exposed.
As my brain was going on this little thought experiment, I was looking at my hands. They had been scratched by a kitten scrambling away from me when it got caught in my wired headphones at the little mountain town on the border a few days back.
Hmm. Is Bosnia & Herzegovina and Montenegro rabies free?
Not quite, it turns out. (To see more details on rabies and the vaccine process, see appendix)
It was cosmic timing- these angry dogs pushing us to leave the mountains and my realizing I needed to talk to a doctor about rabies. It was time to go to the city. Luckily, we were now on the train route. We could take a simple 45min train to Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro.
Once in Podgorica, we were taken care of. The dogs now simply strays. Some still angry but acceptable.
On the rabies front, I was directed to the National Public Health Institute and had an amazing conversation with Dr. Carolina. At the time of writing, I have now completed the proper course of vaccine (if curious, see more details in appendix)
After a week of anxiety, we are completely fine. We are alive. We are well. Our dog trauma is healing and everything is going to be ok.
As for Vietnam, it sounds like there will mostly be strays (keep your fingers crossed for us please!), but now we’ve done our homework. While I got the rabies exposure vaccine course, Evie was also able to get the prophylaxis dose. We’ve also ordered two personal alarms, the kind you might see someone have if they walk around alone at night often, which claim to be as loud as an ambulance siren. We’re hoping these can scare the dogs in Vietnam if we need it to.
For now, we’re enjoying our last days in Europe. We’re making our way down the coast of Greece and meeting our dear friend Kyende the beginning of November.
Appendix
If you’re so keen on the rabies vax and process details, please enjoy the following.
On realizing rabie exposure is possible in Bosnia & Herzegovina:
While uncommon, it turned out there had been a confirmed case of dog rabies in the mountains of B&H back in 2020. Montenegro had an active surveillance program, and hadn’t had a confirmed case in 20+ years. Still, it wasn’t considered rabies free.
Now my mind was spinning as I got deeper down the internet rabbit hole. To have rabies exposure, it had to be through saliva (usually a bite, although could happen through claws) and it was much more common in dogs than cats. I was probably safe. Probably is not a very comforting word when it comes to rabies, however and after this initial research I decided I needed local and professional advice.
On speaking with a doctor and starting the vaccine process in Montenegro:
On the rabies front, I was directed to the National Public Health Institute and had an amazing conversation with Dr. Carolina, who ultimately recommended I do a rabies PEP course of vaccine, which was 4 doses of vaccine. I did the Zadar course of vaccine, which is a WHO approved timeline. I received 2 doses on what became day 0, one in each arm to boost immune reaction. We returned from a week loop of biking for me to recieve dose 3 on day 7. At this same time, Evie completed a prophylaxis course, which was 1 vaccine on day 0 and 1 at day 7.
On getting the final dose in Athens:
This proved to be the most challenging, for a few reasons. First, dogs and cats in Greece are considered rabies free, so the vaccine is less readily available. Second, I didn’t start the vaccine course there. Every country follows their own WHO-approved protocol. Third, I wasn’t able to receive my final dose on the exact day prescribed by Dr. Carolina. Medically, this was actually fine. The timing of the fourth dose is flexible. However, the first time I went to the Greek public health institute (in case you ever need to know, 1st public health of Attica is the exact name) they refused to even consider it because the date was wrong. I was very distraught. I managed to find Dr. Carolina’s email and have an exchange with her proving the date was flexible. I went back a few days later very determined, and was able to see a different doctor who approved my getting the 4th and final dose.
